The ribs prevent sagging of the first layer. It only sticks on the ribs, not in the gaps in-between. They cause the support to not stick too hard to the model, so you can easily remove it. And I would print the model in such a way that the support is located somewhere where surface quality is not too important. At least for my relatively small models.įor bigger models, I might try a bigger gap of 0.4 to 0.5mm. With a gap of 0.2mm or 0.3mm, and the ribs rotated 90° as shown (very important), this gave the best balance between an acceptable bottom layer, and ease of removal of the support. When trying to remove it, this severely damaged the bottom layer of my models. If the gap is too narrow, the bottom layer of the model sticks too hard to the support. I have tried smaller gaps than 0.2mm too, but that did not work well with my filament (Ultimaker PLA and colorFabb PLA/PHA) and my models. And they should be 90° rotated to the direction of the infill of the bottom layer of the part above the support. Here too I can cut the supports loose with a scalpel, and pull them out with a plier.Įdit: the ribs at the bottom of the support can help but are not really necessary in my experience. Have a look at this image to illustrate the gaps and ribs: Higher accuracy and smaller models need smaller gaps. Bigger models require bigger gaps between model and support. Make a test print with different sizes of gaps, and try which works best for your material, sizes and temperatures. Thus that gives: last layer of model below support, then 0.5mm gap, then solid (!) layer of 0.5mm as the base of the support, then the support scaffold, then a solid layer of 0.5mm which is still part of the support, then ribs of 0.5mm wide and 0.5mm high, then a gap of 0.2mm to 0.3mm, then the first layer of the model above the support. Between a support and bottom layer of overlaying object, I usually leave a gap of 0.2mm to 0.3mm. Between a model layer and the supports, I usually allow 0.5mm spacing. Between side walls and support, allow at least 0.5mm spacing, or better 1mm, so that supports don't stick to the walls. So you can easily grip it from the outside with a plier. In difficult to access areas, extend the support to outside of the model for easier access. Allow enough room for a sharp knife or scalpel (surgical knife) to move in-between the supports and the model, so you can cut the supports loose from the model. Design hooks, holes or other features into the support, so that you can pull them out with pliers, screw drivers, or other tools. If you design the models yourself, then also design the support structures. O yea, I have the Ultimaker 2 Extended Plus. (I realize one setting will never work for ALL parts) So I am just asking if there is anyone else out there that has gone through this and found something that gives them a good starting point most of the time with changes here and there based on the part of course. The problem is I can not share most of my projects because of NDA agreements. They haven't given up on me) was to pick the brain of the community. The suggestion from Ultimaker (who is still helping me with this by the way. I have tried different densities, patterns, support roof thicknesses, etc. And I mean bad enough surface to the point where it becomes un-presentable to my customer. If I go any further with the support structure in the Z than the material that is supposed to be supported by the support structure has too much room for creating a bad surface. Problem is, I do mostly parts that are shelled out in the back and surrounded by material around the supports. I have had minimum success with this distance if I have a part that has supports that are easily reachable and not surrounded by the rest of the part. 1 for that distance, the support is so hard to remove from the part that I end up destroying some of the part in the process of removal. However, anything that needs support structures will not turn out very nice. Since then I have been able to fine tune my prints so that anything that does not need support structures will print very nicely and be very presentable for the customer. After much research, I settled on the Ultimaker based on the information available at that time. I design parts for a living and decided that instead of sending all these parts out to Protolabs or places like that, I should buy a 3D printer and do them myself, thereby retaining that lost revenue. I have yet to find an acceptable solution. I have been working with the experts at Ultimaker to find the best settings for the support structures when printing PLA (or anything for that matter) with the Ultimaker.
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